Nepal rises from the ruins: Discover a magical nation teeming with life as it recovers from its devastating earthquake

• Almost 18 months ago, Nepal suffered an earthquake that killed thousands
• Many tourist attractions had remained largely intact after the disaster
• Travellers can still explore Chitwan National Park and trek to Pokhara

 Although there’s no denying the impact of the earthquake, the vast majority of Nepal’s attractions are largely intact

It is nearly 18 months since Nepal suffered its worst natural disaster in nearly a century – a devastating earthquake that killed more than 8,000 people and destroyed ancient villages.

The effect on tourism has been equally shattering: visitor numbers are estimated to be down by two-thirds, as uncertainty lingers over the condition of attractions such as world-class trekking trails in the Himalayas and Kathmandu’s prized sites.

Although there’s no denying the impact of the earthquake, it was a wonderful surprise and relief to discover that the vast majority of Nepal’s attractions are largely intact.

As my husband Nick and I wandered through the elegant courtyards of the 17th Century Hanuman Dhoka palace in Kathmandu’s Durbar Square, we were stunned at every turn by artistry and beauty. 

Delicate birds and exquisite flowers burst from intricately carved teak pillars.

Durbar Square is the heart of ancient Kathmandu and it teems with life, colour and fascinating traditions: from the Kumari Devi, a living child-goddess housed in the Kumari Bahal temple, to women selling butter lamps used as temple offerings.

At Boudhanath, Nepal’s biggest stupa, we joined pilgrims walking clockwise around the temple, its huge spherical base inset with intricately embossed prayer wheels. 

It’s impossible not to be moved at the sight of monks and devotees on their kora, chanting as they make offerings of rice, flowers and incense.

Lapping it up: Jennifer during her elephant safari, where she discovered the rolling meadows of Chitwan

Early the next morning we left the dusty, crowded streets of Kathmandu behind for an eight-hour drive south to Chitwan National Park.

Judged one of the best national parks in Asia, Chitwan’s sprawling 350 square miles of (malaria-free) rainforests, grass and marshlands are a haven for rhinos, elephants, leopards, sloth-bears and tigers. 

We stayed at Machan Country Villa, a small collection of well-appointed jungle lodges supported by a fantastic cook and team of knowledgeable rangers.

Thanks to chief ranger Ram, we now know that more than 546 species of birds – from serpent eagles to red-headed cormorants – live in this jungle.

Early the next morning, as we set off on an elephant safari through rolling meadows, the countryside looked strangely English – until a monkey leapt from a tree directly above our heads and scampered noisily off into the canopy.

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The extraordinary landscape of Pokhara, Nepal’s trekking capital, where most of the world’s tallest mountains are situated

A hornbill hooted indignantly, and a macaw shrieked in agreement. But our guide urged us to look ahead instead to where there were two grazing rhinos. 

Our elephant decided to investigate further, and we clung to the howdah saddle as she lumbered up a steep bank, plunged through trees and sent brightly coloured butterflies billowing in every direction.

Our sunset safari was equally thrilling: a jeep ride to the beautiful Narayani River. 

We weren’t lucky enough to spot one of the 125 Bengal tigers in Chitwan, but canoeing down the river at sunset, as crocodiles basked on muddy banks, could not have been more atmospheric.

We were sad to leave Chitwan but it was time to travel 100 miles north to Nepal’s unofficial trekking capital, Pokhara. Most of the world’s tallest mountains are in this region.

Pokhara is 20 miles from the Annapurna ranges – a popular Himalayan trekking circuit – and its pretty lakeside district is a bustling hub of trekking shops and guides, with plenty of cafes and bars to rest weary legs.

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At Boudhanath (pictured), Nepal’s biggest stupa, Jennifer joined pilgrims walking clockwise around the temple

We stayed 20 minutes away at Tiger Mountain Pokhara Lodge, a collection of colonial-chic bungalows offering spectacular views of the Himalayas, as well as exquisite cuisine, an elegant pool and impeccable service.

We’d heard beforehand how friendly the locals were, and we experienced that first-hand one afternoon while driving back from haggling for yak wool blankets in Pokhara.

Spotting a colourful wedding party, Nick jumped out of the bus and asked if he could photograph the beautiful bride in her red wedding sari. Not only did she say yes, but she invited us to join the party.

It was an unforgettable afternoon, and once the wedding was finished, guests piled into our bus and we dropped them off at another wedding close by.

The whole experience was magical – and just one reason why we should be heading to Nepal in our droves.

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